A highly recommended walk around Corfu town


去年八月我选了一个多云的日子在科孚镇散步,aiming to visit places I hadn't been to since I was a child.也,I intended to find two old houses where I knew my grandmother and mother had been living in as children.One is situated just behind Liston and the other is in the old quarter of Campielo.我很高兴能找到我想要的所有地方,也很高兴今天能详细分享我的经历。

During the same walk,我还第一次参观了帕托尼斯肥皂厂,having discovered it in Hilary Paipeti's excellent book,Corfu Off the Map.Its owners were very hospitable and even gave my husband and me a quick tour of the place.

Before I set off on this virtual tour with you,here's a map of the town to give you an idea of our route:


那天我和丈夫一起散步,Andy) took us via the following places of interest in this order:

萨洛科公司–>Garitsa Bay–>海葵(Nautilus Cafe&The Windmill)–>Liston&Pentofanaro–>Agion Panton Church–>St Spyridon Church–>Campielo(Venetian Well和Ypapanti Church)–>Spilia(New Venetian Fortress,Holocaust Monument and old coach station) –> Jewish quarter & Synagogue –> back to Sarocco Sq.

安迪和我停在萨罗科附近(或萨罗科——威尼斯人最初叫“圣罗科”)。It is a big shopping area built around a square.It is also an open-air bus terminal for civic buses to the north and the south.From there,we took Alexandras Avenue past the post office,until we hit the water at Garitsa Bay.


This is where Douglas's Column stands.或者,当地人称之为,"我Kolona Dougla”.

The sea view from this spot is phenomenal on any given day,但是那天早上天空的云朵让我们的景色令人惊叹……甚至连正在进行的道路工程和我们在那里发现的瓦片堆也没有破坏魔法。


The view on the left from there is to the Old Venetian Fortress.在另一边,沿海公路一直延伸到海葵湾的尽头(风车)。风车位于桥墩的底部。At Garitsa bay,海中散布着各种各样的帆船。我的佳能Powershot SX610hs的精彩变焦甚至捕捉到了著名的游艇Athat day,我真的很高兴!!


在加里莎周围散步是一种安静的乐趣,清新的空气和迷人的景色。在去风车的路上,we encountered many locals dipping in the water for a cooling swim.


Just before the windmill,我们停下来Nautilus cafefor a coffee.它有牛角面包,much to our delight.I highly recommend a venture inside the cafe,if only to see if you'll sweat at all when crossing over the threshold (I did,but I'm weird like that,and I'm not telling why.You'll just have to find out for yourselves 😛 )


Anemomylos offers equally spectacular views.就像在加里萨一样,the locals keep coming and going for their daily swim.


在这里,我会给你一个当地人给我的小费。See the picture above?After visiting the pier,沿着海岸继续风车的后面,你很快就会到达一个曾经只有希腊国王和皇室成员才能进入的游泳区!It is situated near Mon Repos and was recently opened by the council.无法从该侧访问mon repos,但是你可以去海滩上的一个地方,在那里希腊皇室曾经从宫殿下来,沉入大海。The booth where they used to change into their bathing costumes still stands!我今年没有机会参观它,因为我被告知太晚了。我希望下次再来,though,and I will share photos and more info then.


从风速计,we headed back to Garitsa so we could get to Liston in town.On the way,我很高兴能认出我小时候常和奶奶一起度假的加里萨的老房子。We were staying with her daughter (my aunt Stephania) and her family,who rented a flat there at the time.It was in the tall building on the left of this photo.On the green where I stood to take the picture,以前在白天有秋千,我记得那里很郁郁葱葱,很阴凉。


奶奶以前每天都带我去那里喂我“kolatsio”(早餐和午餐之间的小吃)。它由煮鸡蛋和面包组成,more often than not.大约50年后,the sense of place was so strong that when I stood in the middle of the now barren land gazing out to the Old Fortress like I used to as a child,奶奶讲话的旋律抑扬顿挫,几乎又传到我耳边了。这是我每天想念她的情感时刻。那天早上,她感觉很亲密。So very close again.


当我们到达利斯顿和它旁边的五根灯柱的时候,我们在利斯顿后面右转,然后在第一个拐角处左转。That's Agion Panton street,named after the church of the same name that you soon come across on the right.


Just after the church,I came across the old edifice that Granny had pointed out to me in the past – the house where she grew up,我母亲也知道这一点,因为她小时候经常去看望祖父母。Her grandfather (my great-grandfather,来自莱夫卡岛的尼科斯·科普西达斯(Nikos Kopsidas)每个星期天都会在潘托法纳罗(Pentofanaro)与她会面(当她从坎皮罗的房子里出来时,我稍后会给你看)。then escorted her to this house for lunch.


Many a time over the years when Granny and I walked past the house,she'd point to the door,then up to the 5th floor to tell me this was where she ran from to St Spyridon Church whenever the town was being bombed during WWII.One fateful morning a miracle took place in the church to protect the people inside from the bombs.My granny was inside,a teenager then,亲眼目睹。她喜欢讲故事,后来我也从镇上的其他人那里听说过。To hear all about it,欢迎你阅读这个帖子that shares other miracles of St Spyridon too.


Going back on ourselves from Agion Panton street,we headed for the lane that runs past the back of St Spyridon's church.From there,we hurried past the busy olive wood artifact shops to follow the sign to ‘The Venetian Well'.It was just a few seconds away from there,在这个令人叹为观止的古镇坎皮罗的中心,有着风景如画的小巷和古老的威尼斯建筑。

下一步,we had to ask a local or two in order to find Ypapanti Church in the same area.My mother had told me that the house she was raised in stood right across from that church.I'd never seen either before and was getting excited as I followed the locals' directions ambling along picturesque lanes and down old marble steps.

Finding the church proved easy enough,and it was quite close to the Venetian well.


I identified the house easily.我母亲曾提到有拱顶和一个外部楼梯,以及前门后面的台阶。我在伊帕潘蒂教堂的前门拍了第三张照片。


Moved by the forlorn spectacle and the realization that I was treading on the footsteps of loved ones from another era,I went on my way reduced to silence and,through the back of old hotels,很快就出现在这个令人惊叹的广场上。


你可以从德雷尔的一个场景中辨认出场景。Supposedly having traveled to Athens,Lawrence Durrell was having a coffee at the square in said scene.In reality,this is the square of the Metropolitan Church of Corfu (or Mitropoli).这是这张照片中美丽的粉红色建筑。


到那时,安迪和我走了很长一段路,热得要命,所以我们朝老港口走去。在新的堡垒,我们左转进入斯皮利亚。This used to be the coach station of Corfu back in the 80s.每年夏天,我都会和妹妹一起坐雅典的长途汽车来到这里,这让我有无数美好的回忆。我们一下车,we'd rush to Spilia to take our luggage off the coach and we'd be met by a sky full of starlings chirping overhead.These moments used to signal for me every time the beginning of a long blissful summer.

我已经好几年没去过斯皮利亚了,对周围环境的变化感到震惊。The coach station building is now derelict,and the place where the coaches used to park side-by-side was now taken up by tables and chairs from a number of cafes.A monument of the Holocaust also stands there now,honoring the memory of the multitudes of Corfiot Jews that lost their lives under the Nazi regime.This place was apt for this awe-inspiring monument,seeing that to the left of the square,延伸出犹太区的城镇周围建立了一个犹太教堂。

事实:Spilia(Cave,in Greek) is owed to a known cave in the vicinity.它位于这个地区的新堡垒附近。

After a much-earned stop at Spilia for ice cream,we took the lane past玛丽娜酒馆(主要用于德雷尔生产团队的午餐会,or so I heard!) to the Jewish quarter and the Synagogue.The road led us up ahead to Theotoki Street (where Hondos Center and Public are).From there,we turned right,back to Sarocco.


With Alexandras Avenue and the post office behind us,we headed up,along the right side of Sarocco square.Asking at a cafe for directions,we found the帕图尼斯肥皂厂just a couple of doors away.I say ‘factory' but its facade is only small with a typical shop front door so keep your eyes peeled.

这个传统的家族企业自1891年开始在科孚运作,至今仍由创始人(第五代)的后代经营。who use the same methods and tools as in the olden days.To our delight,他们热情地欢迎我们,并邀请我们参观这个地方,during which a lovely young lady of the Patounis family gave us a proper presentation as well.


Luckily for us,我们在生产日抓住了他们。工厂的主要工人(谁,they said,是一块宝石,对他们来说是不可替代的),当非常有趣的演讲发生时,他们正在后台努力工作。


前面有一家商店,我们选择了一些产品在离开前带回家。该公司生产4种不同类型的肥皂。我们知道有些当地人没有他们是做不到的,and not just for washing themselves.Depending on the type,some are good for washing dishes,others for doing the laundry.All soaps are made with pure ingredients,包括天然油。有关公司及其产品的更多信息,goHERE.

我劝你一有机会就去参观帕图尼斯肥皂厂,if only to sample the truly warm hospitality of its owners.And,if you have a book to spare,最好是儿童读物或图画书,consider donating one for the small library that operates in the factory!!


我希望你喜欢和我一起在我最喜欢的城镇散步。我强烈建议你也试试,as it combines the bustle of market areas and touristy lanes with the charm of quiet,forlorn streets that have the power to take you back in time.And let us not forget the ample sea air you would be getting at Anemomylos and Garitsa Bay!Even if you follow my advice to walk to there and back from Sarroco (or Liston) and leave the rest for another time,I am sure you will consider your time well spent.As for how long it takes to visit Anemomylos from town,I'd say about 30-40 minutes either side at a comfortable speed.


Have you visited any of these places?你觉得怎么样?你能为我的下一次探险推荐另一个地区吗??Go on,add a comment and tell us all about it!!

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