I picked a cloudy day last August to take a long walk around Corfu town,目的是参观我小时候没去过的地方。也,I intended to find two old houses where I knew my grandmother and mother had been living in as children.One is situated just behind Liston and the other is in the old quarter of Campielo.我很高兴能找到我想要的所有地方,也很高兴今天能详细分享我的经历。

During the same walk,我还第一次参观了帕托尼斯肥皂厂,having discovered it in Hilary Paipeti's excellent book,科尔夫离开了地图。它的主人非常好客,甚至给了我和我丈夫一个快速游览的地方。

Before I set off on this virtual tour with you,here's a map of the town to give you an idea of our route:

The walk I did that day (with my husband,Andy) took us via the following places of interest in this order:

Sarocco Sq.–>Garitsa Bay–>海葵(Nautilus Cafe&The Windmill)–>Liston&Pentofanaro–>Agion Panton Church–>St Spyridon Church–>Campielo(Venetian Well和Ypapanti Church)–>Spilia(New Venetian Fortress,大屠杀纪念碑和老长途汽车站)–>犹太区和犹太会堂–>回到萨罗科广场。

安迪和我停在萨罗科附近(或萨罗科——威尼斯人最初叫“圣罗科”)。这是一个围绕广场而建的大型购物区。It is also an open-air bus terminal for civic buses to the north and the south.From there,we took Alexandras Avenue past the post office,直到我们在加利莎湾下水。

This is where Douglas's Column stands.或者,当地人称之为,“我Kolona Dougla”.


The view on the left from there is to the Old Venetian Fortress.在另一边,the coastal road reaches down to the end of the bay at Anemomylos (windmill).风车位于桥墩的底部。At Garitsa bay,海中散布着各种各样的帆船。我的佳能Powershot SX610hs的精彩变焦甚至捕捉到了著名的Yacht A那一天,我真的很高兴!!

在加里莎周围散步是一种安静的乐趣,fresh air and enchanting vistas.On our way to the windmill,我们遇到许多当地人在水中游泳降温。

就在风车前,我们停下来Nautilus cafe喝杯咖啡。它有牛角面包,much to our delight.I highly recommend a venture inside the cafe,如果只是想看看你跨过门槛时是否会出汗(我是这样做的,but I'm weird like that,and I'm not telling why.You'll just have to find out for yourselves 😛 )

海葵提供同样壮观的景色。Just like in Garitsa,当地人每天都来来去游泳。

在这里,I'll give you a tip that a local gave me.看到上面的图片了吗?参观完码头后,carry on behind the windmill along the coast and you will soon get to a bathing area that was once accessible only to the Greek king and the rest of the royal family!它位于Mon Repo附近,最近由理事会开放。It is not possible to access Mon Repos from that side,但是你可以去海滩上的一个地方,在那里希腊皇室曾经从宫殿下来,沉入大海。The booth where they used to change into their bathing costumes still stands!我今年没有机会参观它,因为我被告知太晚了。我希望下次再来,though,and I will share photos and more info then.

从风速计,we headed back to Garitsa so we could get to Liston in town.On the way,I was delighted to identify the old house in Garitsa where I used to holiday with my granny as a small child.We were staying with her daughter (my aunt Stephania) and her family,who rented a flat there at the time.它在这张照片左边的高楼里。On the green where I stood to take the picture,there used to be swings back in the day and I remember that it was very lush and shady there.

奶奶以前每天都带我去那里喂我“kolatsio”(早餐和午餐之间的小吃)。它由煮鸡蛋和面包组成,经常。Almost fifty years later,the sense of place was so strong that when I stood in the middle of the now barren land gazing out to the Old Fortress like I used to as a child,奶奶讲话的旋律抑扬顿挫,几乎又传到我耳边了。这是我每天想念她的情感时刻。那天早上,她感觉很亲密。So very close again.

When we reached Liston and the Pentofanaro beside it (Five Lantern Post),我们在利斯顿后面右转,然后在第一个拐角处左转。That's Agion Panton street,named after the church of the same name that you soon come across on the right.

就在教堂之后,我无意中看到了老奶奶过去给我指的那座古老的大厦——她长大的那座房子,我母亲也知道这一点,因为她小时候经常去看望祖父母。她的祖父(我的曾祖父,Nikos Kopsidas from the island of Lefkas) would meet her at Pentofanaro every Sunday (when she'd arrive from the house in Campielo that I'll show you later),然后护送她到这所房子吃午饭。

很多年来,我和奶奶走过房子,她会指着门,然后到5楼告诉我,这是她从哪里跑到圣斯皮里登教堂每当镇被轰炸在二战期间。一个致命的早晨,教堂发生了一个奇迹,以保护里面的人们免受炸弹的袭击。我奶奶在里面,a teenager then,亲眼目睹。她喜欢讲故事,后来我也从镇上的其他人那里听说过。听到这一切,you're welcome to readthis post这也分享了圣斯皮里登的其他奇迹。

Going back on ourselves from Agion Panton street,我们朝着经过圣斯皮里登教堂后面的小路走去。From there,we hurried past the busy olive wood artifact shops to follow the sign to ‘The Venetian Well'.It was just a few seconds away from there,在这个令人叹为观止的古镇坎皮罗的中心,有着风景如画的小巷和古老的威尼斯建筑。

Next,we had to ask a local or two in order to find Ypapanti Church in the same area.我母亲告诉我,她所住的房子就在教堂对面。我以前也从未见过,当我沿着当地人的方向漫步在风景如画的小巷和古老的大理石台阶上时,我感到很兴奋。

Finding the church proved easy enough,and it was quite close to the Venetian well.

I identified the house easily.我母亲曾提到有拱顶和一个外部楼梯,以及前门后面的台阶。I took the third picture standing at the front door of Ypapanti Church.

被这凄凉的景象所打动,意识到我是在踏上另一个时代的亲人的脚步,I went on my way reduced to silence and,穿过旧旅馆的后面,很快就出现在这个令人惊叹的广场上。

你可以从德雷尔的一个场景中辨认出场景。据说去了雅典,Lawrence Durrell was having a coffee at the square in said scene.In reality,this is the square of the Metropolitan Church of Corfu (or Mitropoli).这是这张照片中美丽的粉红色建筑。

到那时,Andy and I were parched from the long walk so we headed towards the old port.At the New Fortress we turned left into Spilia.This used to be the coach station of Corfu back in the 80s.每年夏天,我都会和妹妹一起坐雅典的长途汽车来到这里,这让我有无数美好的回忆。我们一下车,we'd rush to Spilia to take our luggage off the coach and we'd be met by a sky full of starlings chirping overhead.这些时刻曾经是我每一次幸福漫长的夏天开始的信号。

I hadn't visited Spilia in years and was astounded by the change of the setting.The coach station building is now derelict,过去马车并排停放的地方现在被许多咖啡馆的桌椅所占据。A monument of the Holocaust also stands there now,honoring the memory of the multitudes of Corfiot Jews that lost their lives under the Nazi regime.This place was apt for this awe-inspiring monument,看到广场的左边,延伸出犹太区的城镇周围建立了一个犹太教堂。


After a much-earned stop at Spilia for ice cream,我们过了那条小路Marina's Tavern(主要用于德雷尔生产团队的午餐会,or so I heard!) to the Jewish quarter and the Synagogue.这条路通向西奥托基街(洪都斯中心和公众所在地)。From there,我们右转,back to Sarocco.

With Alexandras Avenue and the post office behind us,我们向上走,along the right side of Sarocco square.在咖啡厅问路,我们找到了帕图尼斯肥皂厂just a couple of doors away.我说的是“工厂”,但它的正面很小,只有一个典型的商店前门,所以你要保持警惕。

这个传统的家族企业自1891年开始在科孚运作,至今仍由创始人(第五代)的后代经营。who use the same methods and tools as in the olden days.To our delight,他们热情地欢迎我们,并邀请我们参观这个地方,during which a lovely young lady of the Patounis family gave us a proper presentation as well.

幸运的是,我们在生产日抓住了他们。工厂的主要工人(谁,they said,is a bit of a gem and quite irreplaceable to them) was working hard in the background as the very interesting presentation took place.

前面有一家商店,我们选择了一些产品在离开前带回家。该公司生产4种不同类型的肥皂。我们知道有些当地人没有他们是做不到的,不仅仅是为了洗自己。根据类型,some are good for washing dishes,others for doing the laundry.所有的肥皂都是由纯原料制成的,包括天然油。有关公司及其产品的更多信息,去HERE.

我劝你一有机会就去参观帕图尼斯肥皂厂,如果只是为了品尝主人真正热情的款待。而且,如果你有一本书要借,ideally short reads for kids or picture books,consider donating one for the small library that operates in the factory!!

我希望你喜欢和我一起在我最喜欢的城镇散步。我强烈建议你也试试,as it combines the bustle of market areas and touristy lanes with the charm of quiet,孤独的街道有能力及时把你带回来。让我们不要忘记你在海葵湾和加里莎湾所获得的充足的海洋空气!Even if you follow my advice to walk to there and back from Sarroco (or Liston) and leave the rest for another time,I am sure you will consider your time well spent.从镇上到海葵花要多长时间?I'd say about 30-40 minutes either side at a comfortable speed.

Have you visited any of these places?你觉得怎么样?Would you recommend another area of the town for my next exploration??继续,添加评论并告诉我们所有相关信息!!


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